When I tell my friends that I miss the food in Kyoto, they nod sympathetically. They know how much I love to eat, and they understand that for any foodie worth their salt, Japan is something of a culinary promised land鈥攁 place where streets are paved with freshly caught sashimi, and rivers flow rich with savory dashi broth. What they don鈥檛 realize, however, is that I鈥檓 not just reminiscing about Kyoto鈥檚 hearty bowls of ramen, robust cups of matcha, or delicate pieces of tempura.
I really miss the pizza.
This isn鈥檛 to say I don鈥檛 think fondly of my late-night visits to neighborhood takoyaki stands, where thick wedges of octopus are battered and served, piping hot, under a mountain of green onions. Nor does it mean I don鈥檛 fantasize about the mom-and-pop sushi restaurant down the street, where a sumptuous chirashi bowl 鈥 overflowing with eel, salmon, and squid 鈥 costs less than a bus ticket. It鈥檚 just that I go to school in L.A. County, where good Japanese food is always within driving distance. But there鈥檚 only one place in the world where you can order a Domino's 鈥淪akura Pizza.鈥
For reasons that continue to elude me, it鈥檚 incredibly difficult to find a pizza that captures the sweet ephemerality of the sakura cherry blossom, whose brilliant pink flowers bloom for just one or two weeks before fluttering away with the wind. I didn鈥檛 study abroad in Italy, but I have to assume that pizza in Naples doesn鈥檛 come topped with strawberry-flavored tapioca balls 鈥 just as I imagine their mozzarella isn鈥檛 mixed with sweetened condensed milk, and their crust isn鈥檛 stuffed with a blend of cheese and cherry-blossom-infused chocolate. Indeed, Sakura Pizza is exclusive to Japan. How could I not take advantage of such an opportunity?
And well, the Sakura Pizza is, perhaps unsurprisingly, pretty gross. Maybe there鈥檚 a reason they don鈥檛 put tapioca on pizza in Naples: the combination makes for a perplexing, rubbery, eraser-like gumminess. The cherry blossom gives the mozzarella-filled crust a floral cheesiness, so that each bite feels like you鈥檙e gnawing a hunk off a used bar of deodorant. Did I mention that there鈥檚 chocolate in there too? It鈥檚 a total sensory overload 鈥 eight slices of sweet-and-savory sacrilege 鈥 and oh, how I miss it so.
It鈥檚 not the taste of the Sakura Pizza that I miss (though I am fond of it in a Fear Factor, adrenaline-spiking sort of way). I miss eating Domino鈥檚 with my Associated Kyoto Program friends at our monthly 鈥減arties,鈥 where we鈥檇 rent out an event space and invite some friends from the local Doshisha University. I, of course, would take care of the catering, and I miss letting go of all inhibitions on the Domino鈥檚 website. I miss ordering the 鈥淐heese Volcano Giga Meat鈥 pizza, complete with a bubbling cheddar caldera. I miss bonding with new friends over slices of 鈥淚zakaya-style Asparagus and Bacon,鈥 鈥淐heeseburger Quattro Happy,鈥 and 鈥 of course 鈥 the Sakura Pizza.
I had plenty of 鈥渁uthentic鈥 cultural experiences in Japan. I visited ornate Shinto shrines, soaked in natural onsen hot springs, and discovered that I look pretty darn good in a traditional yukata. I have fond memories of all of it, but now that I鈥檓 back in the States, I find that I really miss the funny little things 鈥 the pieces of Japanese culture that aren鈥檛 advertised in travel brochures or included in the program鈥檚 pre-departure handbook. I think the real joy of living in Kyoto was embracing these fragments of daily life: noticing the different jingles that play depending on which train line you鈥檙e riding, discovering a grape sour candy that fizzes in your mouth, and realizing that, in Japan, you can put just about anything on a pizza.
A few weeks after trying a Sakura Pizza for the first time, I was able to score a reservation at Kyoto restaurant Monk, a restaurant made famous after appearing on an episode of Netflix's original series, Chef鈥檚 Table: Pizza, a restaurant renowned for its creative and considered approach to Italian-inspired cuisine. Every ingredient at Monk is locally sourced, and every ingredient passes through Chef Yoshihiro Imai鈥檚 wood-fired oven; the night I went, the tasting menu鈥檚 pizza de resistance was half venison ragu, half shirasu 鈥 baby whitefish, the size of your fingernail, eaten whole. Unlike the Sakura Pizza, the venison/shirasu pie was complex yet delicate, familiar yet completely original. I don鈥檛 think they put shirasu on pizza in Naples, but maybe they should consider it.
As I waited for the check to come, I struck up a conversation with the American couple sitting next to me: a pair of foodies visiting Kyoto on their honeymoon, capping off the trip with dinner at Monk. They marveled at the quality and the creativity of the meal, the likes of which they had never really seen: 鈥淐an you imagine a pizza with more creative toppings than this?鈥
Boy, could I.